Updated on February 23, 2003
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The "Annual Monitoring Plan for Segments of the California National Historic Trail (Fernley Sand Swales) and the Central Pacific Railroad (CPRR)," as prepared by Gary C. Bowyer, Historical Archaeologist with the Bureau of Land Management, Carson City Field Office, calls for three mitigation elements to resolve adverse effects associated with the recent BLM I Wade Femley Land Exchange: *Detailed photographic and written documentation of the California Emigrant Trail and old CPRR roadbed. *Establishment of a Historic Preservation and Public Access Easement. *Annual repeat photographic monitoring. Photographic and written documentation and establishment of the easement and access having been completed, the first annual repeat photographic monitoring was conducted on November 22, 2002, by Bowyer; Jim Allison, CA-NV Chapter President; Chuck Dodd, longtime OCTA Sand Swale advocate-volunteer; Leslie Fryman, CA-NV Chapter Preservation Officer, and David Palmer. The photographic monitoring plan details nine photographic points where twenty-four individual black and white photographs will be taken documenting the condition of the well defined swale of the emigrant trail and old (abandoned) CPRR roadbed contained within the historic preservation easement area. Major threats include off-road vehicles and illegal dumping, indeed several large truck loads of trash were hauled from the area in a joint BLM I OCTA clean-up organized by Bowyer and Tom Fee two summers ago. Less than a pick- up load of trash was gathered during' photo monitoring -a hopeful sign. The easement area (approximately 1000' wide by a mile long -running east-west) is located on sandy flats about a mile north of 1-80 at exit 48, north of Fernley, Nevada, near the end of the 40-Mile Desert and within sight and smell (for emigrants and their stock anyway) of the Truckee River. Consider the following diary entries taken from "Emigrant Diary Descriptions of Travel Over the Seven-Mile Stretch of Deep Sand to the Truckee River During August 1849," compiled by Don Buck,and Tail of the Elephant: The Emigrant Experience on the Truckee Route of the California Trail 1844-1852, by Olive Newell (Nevada City: Nevada County Historical Society, 1997): We got ready to move out [from Boiling Hot Spring] about 7 oclock & once more took the road. We had yet 20 miles to accomplish & the heat of the day to make it-but it was the only chance & we went on. About 2 oclock we struck the heavy sand 10 miles from Truckey river & had the utmost difficulty in getting our stock thro-stopping every few yards to rest. A little before night we reached the river with every head of stock that we started with...All along the desert road from the very start even the way side was strewed with the dead bodies of oxen, mules & horses & the stench was horrible. All our travelling experience frunishes no parallelfor all this. Many persons suffered greatly for water during the last 8 or 10 miles, and many instances of noble generosity were developed on these occassions. Some trains that got over before us sent water back in kegs & left them on the road marked for the benefit of the feeble. [Clark & Tutt 1849] We are now seven miles from the Truckee River, but the road here becomes very sandy and heavy. After traveling three miles the teams began to give out, so we had to unhitch themfrom the wagons and send them on to grass and water. ..Thomas said that when the cattle were within three miles from the River they smelled the water; and lifting their heads started on a run for the river; and never stopped until they had plunged in and rushed half way across. [McAuley 1852] # 1: (L to R) Leslie Fryman, BLM archaeologist Gary Bowyer, and Jim Allison, partially hidden behind Gary, consult the Monitoring Plan to determine the next point to be rephotographed. When we came within view of Salmon trout River the sand got so deep that we had double teams to pull through...a pint of cold water would have been a fortune to me at that time. [Bonine 1849] ...caught a glimpse of some green trees which bordered the river. I think I never saw so pleasant a sight as those few cottonwoods marking the flow of that mountain stream. We were all soon there when men and animals immediately plunged in and drunk their fill of the pure water. Surely we never tasted water as good as this and I would advise anyone who wished to know the real value of pure water to just cross this desert once. [Jagger, 1849 ] ...here we found a stream of pure soft water from the Siera Nevads mountains and a plenty of feed & the first trees we had seen for 460 miles you cant imagin our joy on our arrival here. [Tinker 1849] the water is splendid and the luxeary of laying under the shade of a tree no one knows but one that has traveled a thousand miles through the hot sun and not seen a tree large enough to shelter a dog...we have nothing now to dread but crossing the mountains [Hackney, 1849 ] # 4: Jim Allison, longtime Sand Swale champion Chuck Dodd and Leslie Fryman relax as Gary Bowyer finishes notetaking. BLM Truck is parked on old CPRR grade facing east to 4O-Miles Desert. OCTA's involvement on this project dates back to early 1997 when the initial "Notice of Exchange Proposal" was issued regarding transferring the area of the emigrant trail and railroad grade into private hands. An Archaeological Survey was completed the same year, identifying eleven sites, seven historic refuse scatters, two small prehistoric lithic scatters, a segment of the CPRR and California Emigrant Trail, unidentified rock features and possible grave sites associated with either the CPRR or emigrant trail, and forty-seven isolated finds. At the 2002 Convention Bowyer and Dodd presented information to the national Board of Directors on the history of the land exchange and Bowyer received recognition with a "Certificate of Achievement" for his involvement in the project. "It is common for the BLM to work with volunteers and organized groups," according to Bowyer, and in the case of the Wade Fernley Land Exchange, "it was always the intent of the BLM to have some type of working arrangement with OCTA for the management of the cultural resources." Bowyer goes on to comment:
"On a personal note, I do not believe that organizations define a working relationship, but it is the individuals committed to working on the project and finding solutions to the issues through com- promise, education and understanding that make the partnership work. I have enjoyed working with OCTA because of Chuck Dodd, Tom Fee, Don Buck and many others, mainly because of their dedication to the resources." As for OCTA's participation, Fryman comments: "My thoughts on the Fernley Swales Easement and partnership with the BLM is that hopefully it will be a success in tenns of OCTA members involvement and will set a precedent for future partnerships between federal agencies and organizations concerned with the preservation of his- toric properties."
Mark your calendars now for the next Sand Swales photo monitoring, site clean up and interpretive field trip- slated for November of 2003.
. I hope that the recent holiday season was a time of enjoyment and fulfillment for each and everyone who gets this message. As the new year begins, I'm looking forward to the many activities I'll be involved in with OCTA. There is the Spring Symposium up in Eureka in April, the convention in Manhattan, KS in August, and the many opportunities for outings and activities cacried on by our chapter. Some of the activities involve voluntary contribution of our time and talents, sometimes tl1e contributions are critical to the survival ofOCTA and the attainment of its goals. My personal experience has been overwhelmingly positive, not only to contribute to the cause but to thoroughly enjoy the association with people who love the history of the trails and who generously share their vast knowledge of the subject. I was given a copy of a note received by Patty Knight- CA/NV Membership and Dues Coordinator, on our membership renewal form which was returned by a member who chose not to renew. The reason given for not renewing was exasperation at being pressured to participate more. I can in a way :understand where this feeling is coming from. Some of the dedicated people who have worked so hard to effect the attainment of OCTA's goals and keep the chapter running smoothly and standing out as an example to every other chapter in OCTA are looking to step back and let others jump in. This can sometimes be heard as an impassioned plea for volunteers and a warning that without them the organization will wither. I know that we need to build our organization and concentrate on sustaining progress in achieving its goals. One of my goals is to update and organize the various committees to make our operation more efficient. F or the most part, however, they are doing a magnificent job, and the business of the chapter is in good hands. We need your input to engage in a dialogue of what we can do to effectively recruit and retain members and the variety of ways, both large and small, in which they can contribute. We are an organization dependent on volunteers, we encourage members to volunteer and participate, and we believe that the personal benefits are well worth the contribution. We have an awards program that recognizes and rewards both members and non-members for their outstanding contributions. Volunteerism, although not a condition of membership or participation in the outings and activities of the chapter, is the backbone of our organization. We are glad to have a solid membership' of those who share our appreciation of. and desire to preserve, the rema-ining features of such a rich history as that of the emigrant trails of the westward migration. We offer you an opportunity-rich environment to contribute.
Happy New Year to all, Jim Allison
APRIL 5-6 EUREKA, CALIFORNIA
The Carson Mansion (Ingomar Club) is located at the foot of 2nd Street (2nd and M) in Eureka. You may park on the street or avail yourselves of valet parking at the front door. This is now a private club, and there is a limit to the number of guests for dining. Please register early. Reservations are on a first-come basis up to the limit. In order to accommodate as many chapter members as possible, we have arranged to augment seating in the main dining room with seating in the adjoining lounge and in several private rooms in the mansion, itself. Tours have to be led by club members. You will be assigned a tour time. We are allowing extra time before dinner to ensure that everyone can take the tour. Please arrive promptly and follow the directions that you will be given at the symposium concerning the organization of the tours. The club has a bar; drinks are pricey, No photographing is allowed in the building. Men must wear coats and ties (bolas allowed). There will be a very short program in the main dining room following dinner for the presentation of the chapter's Lifetime Achievement Award. All other awards will be presented at the symposium. There will be no speakers. We want the evening to be primarily a relaxing social event.
THE SAMOA COOKHOUSE The Samoa Cookhouse is a very popular tourist attraction on the North Coast. It is reputedly the last place in the country to serve traditional lumberjack meals. Lots of food served at communal seating. We have arranged for the entire group to sit together. Come as you are. Relax and get in the mood for your return journey. ACCOMMODATONS: Best Western Bayshore Inn. 3500 Broadway (Highway 101) at south end of town; Reservations: (707) 268- 8005.52 rooms blocked out for OCTA, and prices guaranteed until March 14,2003. Special rates: 34 standard rooms (one king or two queens) $74. There are 18 other rooms with varying configurations and extra amenities which may fit your needs, too. Ask about them or see Oct. 2002's Trail Talk. Continental breakfast included, Taxes extra. Mention that you are with OCTA to get rates. Red Lion Hotel. 4th and V Streets (101 South) at north end of town. Reservations: (707) 441-4712. Single bed: $72. Two double beds: $72. One king. $82, Taxes extra. There is no continental breakfast, but they have a nice restaurant at the hotel. Prices good until March 15, 2003. Mention that you are with OCTA. KOA Eureka. Located midway between Eureka and Arcata on Highway 101. (707) 822-4243. There are many other good motels in Eureka, many of which include a Continental breakfast. We suggest that you consult AAA if interested. We would, of course, like to have as many of you as possible stay at the two motels listed above as they have offered us discounted rates.
OCTA's Mapping the Emigrant Trails (MET) Manual, and the "South Branch" Trail Segment Some people have taken issue to the use of an annotated excerpt from the USGS Dog Valley quad in OCTA's Mapping the Emigrant Trails (MET) manual. In the May 2002 issue of Gregory Franzwa's folio, Will Bagley criticizes it stating that Edwin Bryant "says the trail went up the other side of the river." (Bagley's statement is odd. The trail, by anyone's accounting, leaves the river before heading up toward Dog Valley and could not be on "the other side of the river.") Stanley Paher also objects. Franzwa accuses Don Buck, the primary author of the MET manual, by including the Dog Valley quad excerpt, of "very transparent efforts to denigrate the skillful research of Walt Mulcahy, Don Harris, and other Nevada scholars who worked so hard to find and identify the traces of the covered wagon roads through the Truckee Meadows (Reno area) and into the Sierra Nevada more than thirty years ago." (I think Franzwa was referring to Everett W. Harris, who I understand was called "Doc", not "Don.") Those of us who follow the trail today owe a huge debt of gratitude to Walt Mulcahy and the others who first worked to locate the trail across the Reno-Sparks area. But part of our debt to Mulcahy and the others who were, in their own right, pioneers, is to continue the research they started. We owe that same debt to those who will follow the trail after we have retired from the scene, and - most importantly - to the emigrants who first traveled the trail. If our research leads to conclusions that differ from earlier conclusions, we owe it to all to present these new conclusions for review and consideration and to support our conclusions with evidence and deliberate reasoning. Paher, to his credit, says, "holding varied opinions on the routes of trail segments is not unwholesome, but inevitable and even desirable, when competent trail researchers study diaries and other primary source material." Trail research has changed a lot from the 1960s. It has moved from being only a process of finding old wagon ruts that seem to connect and seem to be headed in the right direction to include detailed and disciplined analysis of the descriptions left us by the emigrants themselves, in the diaries, journals, and reminiscences of their journeys. Finding old wagon ruts that "link coherently with the trail segments that precede and follow" is still a part of today's trail research, but "the trail segment under investigation has to have valid written or cartographic evidence to support its authenticity." In other words, when today's researcher finds ruts and hypothesizes that those ruts are the trail, he or she has to corroborate the hypothesis with what the emigrants themselves said when they described the trail. Of course, the hypothesized route must have collateral physical or topographical evidence before it can be declared to actually be the trail route. If the emigrants describe crossing a creek, there must be a creek at the right location on the hypothesized route, etc. Most importantly, all of the various pieces of evidence must be "mutually supporting (not contradicting one another)in order to verify the location of a trail segment." In other words the evidence has to correlate. If one piece of evidence contradicts another, the researcher cannot just ignore the evidence that does not correlate with the rest. A hypothesized route must fit all the evidence. The MET manual spells this all out. What I have just done is to paraphrase and quote from the four "cardinal rules of trail verification" that Don Buck developed and described in that manual: the Coherence Rule, the Corroborative Rule, the Collateral Rule, and the Correlation Rule. The trail shown on the excerpt of the Dog Valley quad included in the MET manual is the result of what may be the best bit of trail research that has ever been done. Don Wiggins spent about six years researching the trail shown on the Dog Valley quad - the segment that I call the "South Branch" segment because it runs along a ridge parallel to the South Branch of Dog Creek, from the Truckee River to the First Summit of Dog Valley. He analyzed descriptions of the trail written by almost 100 emigrants and he hiked the ridges on both sides of the South Branch to locate traces of old wagon roads and topographical features that correlated with the emigrant descriptions. (The traces were exposed clearly by a devastating forest fire that swept the area in 1994.) The trail located by Don Wiggins, as plotted on the quad, matches the emigrant descriptions and meets all the MET manual's "cardinal rules of trail verification." The trail does not follow along the South Branch of Dog Creek, in the bottom of the narrow, steep sided little canyon formed by that creek, as was thought previously. It follows the ridge above the creek. The previously assumed location cannot be verified as the actual trail route -most significantly, no emigrant account has described the trail following up the creek bed. Still, as indicated earlier, there are those who still don't believe the research. Gregory Franzwa asks, rhetorically, whether the board will demand "incontrovertible proof' of the trail route before any more Carsonite markers are placed to mark it. Don Wiggins' research was distributed, mainly for critique, to a few trail researchers in 1999. Now, however, it is available in published form, in A Trail Sleuthing Experience on the South Branch Canyon Segment of the Truckee Trail: Finding the Trail Where the Emigrants Themselves Said It Was. With Don Wiggins' help, I wrote this description of the trail segment and the evidence and analysis that led to its identification. I presented it for sale at the OCTA convention in Reno last August, and gave a copy (at cost) to everyone who took the convention hike along the segment. The proof that Franzwa asks for is in A Trail Sleuthing Experience. Those who, despite the evidence to the contrary, hold to the belief that the trail followed up the canyon of the South Branch of Dog Creek to First Summit can see the evidence in A Trail Sleuthing Experience if they want. Having labeled the documented route along the ridge above the creek as "controversial" and dismissed it, one might expect them to provide evidence (like a description from some emigrant's diary that supports their claim). With greater expectation, however, I suggest that anyone who is interested in deciding for themselves the route of the trail from the Truckee River to First Summit, refer to the evidence. In general, when a trail "authority" says, "the trail went there," any serious trail buff should ask the question, "how do you know?" When we are talking about the trail to First Summit, A Trail Sleuthing Experience provides the answer to that question. Will the "proof' that Franzwa asked for quiet the controversy? One can only hope that the weight of evidence will prevail. Chuck Dodd and Don Wiggins will lead a hike along the South Branch Segment (same as the hike offered during the Reno convention) this coming spring. Watch the chapter's 2003 Outings Calendar for more information. Notes: 1. A Trail Sleuthing Experience on the South Branch Canyon Segment of the Truckee Trail: Finding the Trail Where the Emigrants Themselves Said It Was. CharIes H. Dodd and Don Wiggins. Chilcoot, California: 19th Century Publications (Route 1, Box 9, Chilcoot, CA 96105),2002 8 by 11 inches. 24 pages. Map 22 photographs, including color photographs on front and back cover. Guide for "hiking it on your own." $6.95. Add $1.50 for shipping and handling. California residents add $1.50 sales tax. 2. OCTA's MET manual can be purchased from OCTA for $15. For details, contact OCTA Headquarters, P.O. Box 1019, Independence, Missouri, 64051-0519; phone (816) 252-2276; fax (816) 836-0989; e-mail octa@indepmo.org. 3. People involved in trail mapping or who work with government agencies with responsibilities for managing public lands with trail segments should contact Frank Tortorich (OCTA Mapping Committee Chair: wagnwheel@volcano.net) or Dave Welch (OCTA Preservation Officer: djwelch@compuserve.com ) about receiving a complimentary copy. 4. Also check out Chuck's new web page at www.californiatrail.org Don Wiggins on South Branch. Traces were exposed after 1994 forest fire.
The Fernley Sand Swales and OCTA's partnership with the BLM, in the clean up and protection of this historic part of the trail, was thoroughly discussed at the CNNV chapter Board meeting on Oct. 26, 2002 at the Governors Inn, Sacramento, CA. President Jim Allison presided. In attendance were board members, (Steve Knight, Virginia Hammerness, Bob Iverson,Carol March), officers Zeke Sicotte (treasurer), and Leslie Fryman (preservation officer). Chapter member Mary Mueller served as recording secretary. Minutes of the last board meeting, Reno, Aug. 14, 2002, were approved as read. Steve Knight, whose term expires this year, nominated Bob Iverson to the office of vice president. Bob was unanimously elected. Jim indicated that he would ask Joyce Everett to become the recording secretary. Zeke Sicotte submitted the Annual Treasurer's report for the year 2002-2003; it was unanimously approved by the board. Changes to the Award Commiittee charter, as submitted by Tom Fee, were unanimously approved. Steve Knight proposed that an Audit Committee of two persons be named to audit the treasurer's activities at least once a year or whenever there is a change of treasurer; the motion was unanimously approved. Preservation officer Leslie Fryman distributed copies of the Preservation Issues Report, which includes reports on the Fernley Swales, BLM/OCfA Partnership, BlackRock/High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trails National Conservation Area Resource Management Plan, Nevada Statewide BLM Geothermal Leasing, Luther Pass Connector between Carson River and Johnson's Cuttoff, proposed "Snotel" Station at Carson Pass, California Trail Interpretive Center at Elko, NV, and Nobles Cutoff/Highway 44 near Poison Lake/ Butte Creek Ranch. The report will be posted on the BLM website; Leslie will prepare a flier to be mailed to our chapter members. In discussion of the Fernley swales it was noted that the chapter will support the BLM in partnership for clean-up and photo-monitoring, and will plan an outing to the swales in the spring. The membership will be informed concerning the chapter's obligations. Before the meeting was adjourned, the next board/ chapter meeting was set for April 5 in Eureka.
INDEPENDENCE MO., April 25, 1849 - The great overland emigration of'49 to California's gold fields is well underway. Several thousand people have gathered here and at St. Joseph to start on the long hard journey across plains, mountains and desert to the Pacific Coast. Companies leave each day, but early starters have been frequently stopped by creeks or rivers difficult to ford. They have had to empty their wagons to make crossings, and one party lost all its outfit. The early plains grass has also been too short and too new for oxen and mules. Cholera has made its dread appearance and is striking the emigrants in large numbers. Of one party of 13 from New York, 12 have died. At St. Joseph between 4000 and 5000 are in camp as many as the existing ferry can take across the Missouri river from now to July 1. There is but one flatboat, which can make two trips a day.
By Pat Loomis It was awesome! Several members of the California-Nevada chapter of OCTA attended the opening of the National Lewis and Clark Bicentennial commemoration in Charlottesville, Virginia, January 15-19. Headquartered on the University of Virginia campus, the program featured talks by well known authors, films, musical presentations, Indian history, the story of the great rivers that marked the journey, a walking tour of old Charlottesville, and tours of Monticello, home of Thomas Jefferson, third president of the United States. Some 4,000 braved light snow and temperatures in the teens and below to hear 23 speakers, fife and drum corps, presentations by Indian Nations, and politicians kick off the three-year celebration. Daniel Jordan, president of the Thomas Jefferson Foundation, referred to the Corps of Discovery's unofficial motto, "We Proceed On" in his opening address, noting in spite of the intense cold, "so shall we." Dayton Duncan, author, spoke about emotions - the desire to push forward. "We respond by wanting to go to the moon and beyond", he said. "Journeying is a part of our history and Lewis and Clark stand there at the beginning of that." Most impressive to OCTA members Virginia Hammerness, Alison Portello, and Pat Loomis was the fantastic amount of planning by the hundreds of volunteers that made the nationwide event memorable. St. Charles, Missouri. Inaugural of the National
Bicentennial of the Lewis
and Clark Expedition
OLD FOLKS PRAYER Now I lay me
On April 21, 2002, Rhoads descendants and friends gathered for the dedication of the Rhoads Cemetery, near Lemoore. They approved and congratulated Steve Emanuels who provided the leadership and the members of the Lower Kings River Historica1 Society who restored and cleaned the cemetery which lies in an open field, and then constructed a walI to protect it. Pictured (from left to right): Mary Mueller, Jessie Saner, Ellen Rosa and Evelyn White. Jessie is the only living descendant, a granddaughter, of Sarah Rhoads (1882). Ellen is a great grand niece of Daniel Rhoads. Evelyn White, widow of George White, a great grandson of Thomas Rhoads, Jr.
In 1849, R. B. Laughlin wrote in his overland diary: "We discovered today our mules were very bad with the lampers. We commenced and burnt them out of some 8 or 10." The uninformed reader naturally asks -What are lampers? Earlene Smith, owner of the Peppermint Creek Wagon and Carriage Company in Jamestown, CA, supplied the following information from her Random House dictionary: "Lampers is the congestion of the hard palate in horses, with great thirst as a symptom." An old time vet book, dated 1923, but used up to the late 1950's, offers: "Lampas (also known as Lampers) is the name given to a swelling of the mucous membrane covering the hard palate and projecting in a more or less prominent ridge immediately behind the upper incisors. The hard palate is composed of spongy tissue that fills with blood when the horse is feeding, which causes the ridges to become prominent, and they then help to keep feed from dropping from the mouth. This swelling is entirely natural and occurs in every healthy horse. Where there is some irritation in the mouth, as in stomatitis or during teething, the prominence of the hard palate may persist, owing to the increased blood supply. In such cases the cause of the irritation should be sought and removed. By way of direct treatment, slight scarification is the most that will be required. Burning the lampas is barbarous and injurious, and it should never be tolerated." Further information about the condition comes from "Diseases of the Horse", U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, 1923: "It is a quite common opinion among owners of horses and stablemen that lampas is a disease that very frequently exists. In fact, whenever a horse fails to eat, and as he does not exhibit very marked symptoms of a severe illness, they say at once "he has the lampas." It is almost impossible to convince them to the contrary; yet it is not the case. It may be put down, then, as an "affliction of the stableman's imagination rather than of the horse's mouth." And so, R. B. Laughlin was one of those who labored under the ignorant belief that burning the lampers was the proper thing to do, whereas, he subjected his mules to unnecessary pain and suffering.
[Ed. Note: The following is from an email Shann Rupp received after attending an Elderhostel in Vermont.] Thank you for alerting me to your Oregon Trail website with its great photographs and quotations. My younger son and I viewed them together on his computer, marveling at the grandeur of scenes through which those courageous pioneers made their tortuous way. Your work in collecting and preserving this heroic segment of our national heritage is tremendously important. It must also be a satisfying, stimulating, bonding, sharing discoveries and enthusiasms with companions in the Trail Society. Enclosed is a copy of an article from the Sacramento Bee. You will notice that nowhere are OCTA or its contributions mentioned... Maybe you could bring it to the attention of some of the organization's movers and shakers that we need a little promotional work. Yours truly,
Wes Briggs [Ed.Note: A most interesting, long article on the Oregon Trail from the Idaho border up through Baker City, Pendleton, The Dalles and Oregon City appeared in the Sacramento Bee last November and provoked Mr. Briggs to send his note and the article to Trail Talk.]
ACTIVITIES Eureka Symposium: April 4 - 6 Enticing events elsewhere:
Lecture on Peter Lassen, Gerlach: June 28
Trail Talk is published quarterly
by the California-Nevada Chapter of OCTA for its members.
EDITORIAL STAFF Patty Knight P.O. Box 1277 Carson City, NV 89702-1277
NATIONAL OCTA WEBSITE:
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